Mountaineering is the ultimate challenge, the trial by fire, for the spirit, the mind and the body. In trying to reach the pinnacle, one can discover the essence of one's being. This romance of heights can be had in Ladakh, the Nun-Kun Massif, the Zanskar group, the central Himalayas and Arunachal Pradesh.

Everywhere, even in the Central Himalayas, are some of the most daunting and challenging peaks in the world, ranging from Nanda Devi (7800m), Kamet (7750m) and Dunagiri (7088m). Climbing rocks is a most challenging task; some call it a vertical dance while others see it as the ultimate way to test yourself.

During winter, snow cap peaks come alive. Reaching out to kiss the shimmering skies above, they are still in the tight embrace of the winter snow as the willowy winds croon songs of love. The vibrant spirit of the mountains is infectious as the skier throws caution to the winds and starts to waltz on the slope-hugging snows, to soar skywards, forsaking all cares.

In Auli in Garhwal, sking is an exhilarating experience with descents of 500 mts from the ridge at 3000 mts over a stretch of 3 kilometers and Kufri in Himachal Pradesh.

Standing on the summit is only part of the total enjoyment and satisfaction that one achieves from mountaineering - and more so in the Indian Himalayas. For most people the Himalayan peaks are not climbable and one conjures up visions of inaccessible mountains, howling winds, freezing cold and terrible disasters.

But for many it is a sport where having once gained the basic skills and attitudes, one can be in love with the mountains & passionately at that!

Mountaineering can generally be taken up in one of the two ways - either by trekking for a few years and then slowly graduating to climbing or undergoing a course in mountaineering at one of the climbing institutes. There are three fully operational institutes -

(a) THE HIMALAYAN MOUNTAINEERING INSTITUTE AT DARJEELING (West Bengal),

(b) THE NEHRU INSTITUTE OF MOUNTAINEERING AT UTTAR PRADESH (Uttar Pradesh) and

(c) THE INSTITUTE OF MOUNTAINEERING AND ALLIED SPORTS AT MANALI (Himachal Pradesh).

The fourth one is Pahalgam. These Institutes run Basic and Advance courses and are for a period of one month. The course fee is subsidized by the government.

It consists of initial lectures and demonstrations, film shows, basic rock climbing, trekking, use of equipment and finally some amount of snow and ice-craft and how to plan an expedition. On completion of a basic course one can take off on an expedition, preferably with others who have expedition experience before. There are over 200 clubs of Mountaineering and Trekking and with membership to these clubs, there is a greater opportunity for getting information, getting equipment and attending slide lectures and film shows and exchanging ideas with experienced mountaineers.

Principally there are three Indian States which tend to be the playground for Indian and Foreign expeditions. These are Jammu & Kashmir, Himachal and Uttar Pradesh.

In Jammu & Kashmir, peaks like Kolahoi (5425m) and Harmukh (5148 m) afford an opportunity for a quick alpine ascent. The popular peaks in the KISHTWAR REGION like Sickle Moon, Riger, Arjuna, Katori and Flat Top go above 6000 metres. In the ZANSKAR, Nun and Kun, witness a steady stream of climbers with their daunting height of more than 7000 metres. White Needle, Pinnale and Z1 are the other interesting peaks in the region. In the enchanting land of LADAKH, Stock Kangri, Parcha Kangri and Kanglcha have challenged mountaineers

In Himachal Pradesh, the land of Hill rajas and Warriors, the peaks around Manali form an interesting exercise for the beginners to go into the Beaskund region only two days away from Manali. Here are the lower peaks of Hanuman Tibba 5932m, Manali and Shitidhar peaks which stand at the source of the Beas. Across the Rohtang pass into the Lahaul area are several interesting clusters of peaks rise up to 6500m and offer the climber a choice in technically difficult peaks, easy snowplod peaks or even rocky peaks.

In Uttar Pradesh, one of the most popular areas for climbers is the Gangotri valley at the head of the source of the Ganges where challenging mountains like Shivling 6542m, and Meru 6540 m stand. Here are also peaks like the Kedarnath 6937m, Bhaghrati 6853m etc with their valley floors having greens and a lot of primulae and anemones.

In Uttar Pradesh, one of the most popular areas for climbers is the Gangotri valley at the head of the source of the Ganges where challenging mountains like Shivling 6542m, and Meru 6540 m stand. Here are also peaks like the Kedarnath 6937m, Bhaghrati 6853m etc with their valley floors having greens and a lot of primulae and anemones.

A hundred divine epoches would not suffice to describe all the marvels of the Himalayas, so goes an ancient Sanskrit scripture on the youngest group of mountains in the world. The towering Himalayas have left an ineffaceble impression on every climber who chose to contest the might of the mountains. At times, man has emerged victorious. At times, climbers simply disappeared into the dense curtain of mists surrounding these mountains. But the man-nature contest continues.

The revered Himalayas stretch along the northern borders of India and embrace a Kaleidoscope of cultural and physical wonders. Cloud capped snowy peaks, densely forested mountain slopes, undulating foothills, infinite variety of flora and fauna - there is something for every nature lover.

Four states of India- Jammu and Kashmir, Uttar Pradesh, Himachal and Sikkim, present exciting opportunities to both amateurs and professional climbers. All one needs to do is to identify the peaks most suitable for one's requirements and capabilities before embarking on the great Himalayan adventure.

Ideally speaking, J&K could have been a mountaineer's delight given its several mountain ranges. What can rival the Pir Panja, Great Himalayas, Zanskar, Ladakh and the ranges of Karakoram?
But a long period of continuous sociopolitical disturbances have put a dampener on the extent and nature of all mountaineering activity in the state.

Ladakh which is approachable from Leh has the stock Kangri and the Pancha Kangri (c. 6150m.) which are popular and technically not too difficult. The Nubra region adjoins the Pakistan border and though it has long approach marches, the area is fascinating for its remote peaks and long glaciers.

Climbing activity in the Zanskar is very hectic in the Nun 7135m and Kun 7077m massif. These two are the towering majestic peaks in this range and have satellite peaks such as White Needle 6556m, Pinnacle c. 6900m and the elegant Z1 at 6400m. The route to the popular Base Camp at the head of the Shafat glacier at 4400m on a grassy patch is the common one for all these peaks. The Base Camp is easily accessible via Srinagar Kargil and then to the road head at Golma Tongus.

From here across the Suru river and two days pleasant walking gets one to the base camp. The other region, that of Kishtwar, is approachable from Jammu. This is the springboard to peaks such as the Arjuna 6230 m, Barnaj 6290 m, Sickle Moon 6575 m, Brammah 6416 m etc. These peaks are technically quite difficult but being slightly lower in height, attract the new way of climbing mountains by the alpine style light weight type expeditioning.

Nanda Devi at 7817 meters is the highest peak of Garhwal. But the peaks are no walkovers! Besides, the meandering flower decked valleys, forests and meadows combine to produce a supreme sensual pleasure. Moreover, mountaineering activity in this area is also seen as an opportunity to get a firsthand experience of the rich and varied traditions of this place.

Nanda Devi requires a full fledged expedition and can no longer be attempted through the old route as the Nanda Devi sanctuary has been closed down for environmental reasons. The meadows of Tapovan and Nandanvan around Gaumukh, the traditional source of river Ganga, provide access to some of the most magnificent peaks like Mount Shivalik. Many peaks tower above 20,000 feet and some lend themselves to the cheap alpine style of ascent. In the far west Garhwal, Har Ki Doon is a convenient base for launching expedititions on the famous Bandarpoonch group. With Nanda Devi closed, climbers have to attempt Trisul by a more formidable south face. On the pilgrim route to Badrinath lies Joshimath, a town of old temples surrounded by snow giants. Both mountaineering and skiing enthusiasts can enjoy the spell binding panorama of the Himalayan peaks.

Also there is the Gangotri valley at the head of the source of the Ganges where challenging mountains like Shivling 6542m, and Meru 6540 m stand. Here are also peaks like the Kedarnath 6937m, Bhaghrati 6853m etc with their valley floors having greens and a lot of primulae and anemones.

Scores of tamed and untamed summits await mountaineers in Himachal. Few states could rival the rich and bountiful nature of this state. Its lush green valleys, fruit laden orchards and gushing streams make a lasting impression on the visitor. Himachal is an ideal preparation ground for the higher challenges of the Himalayas.

Peaks in Himachal vary from 5000 to over 6000 meters with the higher summits largely concentrated in the northern half of the state covering five districts -- Kangra, Chamba, Kulu, Lahul - spiti and Kinnaur. Deo Tibba (6001 m), Menthosa (6445) and Dhamasura (6445 m) are some of the challenges that climbers can look forward to in the state. Expeditions can also be launched on stock Kangri and the Mulkila range.The peaks around Manali form an interesting exercise for the beginners to go into the Beaskund region only two days away from Manali. Here are the lower peaks of Hanuman Tibba 5932m, Manali and Shitidhar peaks which stand at the source of the Beas. Across the Rohtang pass into the Lahaul area are several interesting clusters of peaks rise up to 6500m and offer the climber a choice in technically difficult peaks, easy snowplod peaks or even rocky peaks.

East of Nepal lies the Sikkim Himalayas, Kanchenjunga, India's highest peak (28,146 ft), lies on the Sikkim-Nepal border. For environmental reasons, the Sikkim government is refusing permission to scale the peak. Rathong (22,000 ft.) has some of the open peaks though they require special permits. The best known peaks in Sikkim - Talung, Jonsong and Tent are all above 24,000 feet.

The best season to climb in india is from May to October. Foreign expeditions have to book a peak along with a peak fee. The Indian Mountaineering Foundation is the country's apex body that helps in organizing/sponsoring mountaineering expeditions. It also functions as a clearing house for foreign expeditions and deputes a liasion officer to accompany foreign climbers. All requests have to be forwarded to IMF for clearance. It is advisable to give at least a six month's notice before embarking on an expedition. All emergencies and accidents are looked after by the liasion officer who helps to get rescue from the Indian Air Force.

Are you ready for the great Himalayan adventure? Howling gales and roaring avalanches may haunt you in your dreams long after the expedition is over. But men who have lived sometimes, tell a different tale. A tale of abiding passion for the most unusual adventure.

Benito Juarez Road, New Delhi plays an important regulatory role in the field of mountaineering. They also book peaks for Indians and foreigners so that there are not too many people at the same time on the mountain thereby reducing accident risk. They also help in case of an accident by sending out helicopters through the Ministry of Defence. The Mountain rescue concept is being strengthened and Ground Rescue teams may be a reality soon.

For the purchase of equipment there are three Indian firms manufacturing equipment. These are

WEST COAST MANUFACTURERS at 261 Okhla Industrial Estate, New Delhi - 110 020, who make Mountaineering and trekking equipment,

SUPREME MANUFATURERS at Fazahl Building, Ajmeri Gate, Delhi - 110 006, who make Mountaineering and Camping equipment and

IBEX EQUIPMENT at G-66 East of Kailash, New Delhi - 110 065, Who make Mountaineering, Trekking, camping and Rock Climbing equipment.

1 Take along a comfortable pair of shoes. Break them in for a couple of weeks before the course.

2 Take along everything specified in the brochure though the blankets are not important as they are provided.

3 You do not need any special equipment, all the technical stuff is handled by the Institute.

4 Buy a pair of cheap canvas shoes and get the rubber from an inner tube attached as a sole. This is a great help in rock climbing. Professional shoes are available from Power but if you only need them for three days there's no point getting them for three days.

5 Always check all your equipment when you get it from the Institute and before using it.

The place to go are THE GOVERNMENT INSTITUTES:
The Directorate of Mountaineering and Allied Sports Association, Manali's distt. Kullu, Himachal Pradesh .

WHICH COURSE TO TAKE
Many different courses are offered with some having an age restriction as well. Some like the Adventure Course are open to people of any age and gender. Others, More advanced, like the Basic Mountaineering Course can only admit people between 18-40 years of age. These courses are gender specific also - only males or only females. Skiing, Kayaking and separate Water Sports Courses are also held regularly.

WHEN TO GO
If you like it really tough, go in the winter months when ice and glaciers abound. For the exact timings of each course, get a prospectus from the Insitute which will give you all the details.